Isn't it interesting that this "Winter That Won't Quit" has done seemingly nothing to our weeds!

Damn you, 2014 Polar Vortex!

No matter how many cold nights we suffer, the weeds just keep on coming!

If I wrote a tutorial about how to deal with every weed, it would take months to complete and eventually turn into a book. So, I'll just focus on killing every one of your broadleaf weeds with some very specific products that I think will solve the problem. From dollarweed, oxalis, henbit and clover to chickweed, thistle, dandelion, spurge and stickyweed, I can help you kill them quickly.

It involves two products ... Bonide Weed Beater Complete and Bonide Weed Beater Ultra.

You may already be familiar with Weed Beater Ultra, the liquid "cool-season" herbicide. It's still cool enough — with highs in the 60s and low 70s — to use it with confidence. But the minute the highs reach 80, you need to cease its use. This is a liquid post-emergent herbicide that will take out each and every broadleaf weed AND help with the dreaded Virginia buttonweed. And, in most seasons, this might be all you'd need.

However, with this year's serious weed infiltration, I suggest you first apply Bonide Weed Beater Complete. This is a one-of-a-kind granular product with prodiamine. It works as a pre-emergent herbicide for both broadleaf and grassy weeds. You may also know prodiamine as Barricade. The twist is that it also works like a post-emergent with an active ingredient known as sulfentrazone. But it won't kill trees and shrubs or poison groundwater the way atrazine-based weed-and-feeds have been known to.

So, here's my technique: Put out the Weed Beater Complete first. Then, either lightly water it in with irrigation or allow Mother Nature to do it if rain is imminent. In either case, wait a day. Then apply the liquid Weed Beater Ultra to dry grass. I've been asked if it would be okay to use the Ultra application as the "watering in" part. I don't recommend that. While the granular product needs water to be activated, using both weed killers at once would over-chemicalize the soil.

I've used this technique for a few years now, especially in Galveston where dollarweed has a seemingly permanent residency, and it works like a charm every time.

There are variations to the applications, but you need to think them through logically:

You may have heard that the granular Weed Beater Complete works best if you water the grass first. That's true, if you really want to focus on the post-emergent aspect. But the pre-emergent doesn't really need to stick to the grass blades. That's why I recommend watering it in after application and spot treating with the liquid treatment thereafter.

Is a surfactant necessary with the granular? No. Surfactants are only used when applying liquid products. Here's some background on why.

Can you apply the liquid Weed Beater Ultra first? Yes, if you allow it to dry well before putting down the granular product.

Can you allow Mother Nature to water in the granular if you only spot treated with the liquid? Yes, but don't apply the liquid unless it will have 6-8 hours to dry before it rains.

Can I only use the granular? Yes, but for a 95 percent kill, it really helps to spot treat secondarily.

If you have additional questions about this procedure, you can ask them this weekend by calling the GardenLine radio show. Or you can put them to me in person 11 a.m.-1 p.m. Saturday at Magnuson Ace Hardware, FM 2351 (Edgewood) at FM 518 in Friendswood. I'll have several bags and bottles of these Bonide products to give away while I'm there. And since Nitro-Phos is the distribution hub for Bonide in Houston, I'm pretty darn sure I can twist an arm or two at Nitro-Phos and get a bag or 12 of their fertilizers to give away as well.